Shiskine Golf & Tennis Club: Teeing up the world's greatest 12-hole course in Scotland

ISLE OF ARRAN, Scotland - Only a fool travels halfway around the world to play 12 holes.

Call me stupid, then. It was worth every flight delay, rental car fiasco and bumpy ferry ride in tumultuous waters to experience the glorious Shiskine Golf & Tennis Club. Even with an ominous forecast, there was no way I was missing this round. Getting to Shiskine on the tiny Isle of Arran off the west coast of Scotland is a true golf pilgrimage, a journey only dreamers make and appreciate. It is also the type of golf utopia we think only exists in heaven.

There are so many ways to describe Shiskine's routing. Quirky. Stunning. Natural. Surreal. Although I'd love to play 18 holes in the mold of Shiskine, the 12 currently there seem perfect. They match the course's character and charm. The rollicking terrain leads to a roller-coaster of shots and emotions.

Shiskine opened as 9 holes back in 1896 before eventually expanding to 18. During World War II, six holes on less dynamic inland terrain were abandoned to agriculture. Someone wisely decided the 12 remaining holes were the only ones worth keeping. Its 2,992 yards consist of 7 par 3s, 4 par 4s and one par 5, plus two burns to avoid. The collection of blind shots and half-par holes - the 244-yard par-3 fifth is followed by short par 4s at nos. 6 (274 yards) and 8 (250 yards) - stir up the fun.

The blind shots are almost too many to count. They lend a sense of mystery and adventure, leaving players to wonder, Where did my ball end up?, until the hole's secrets are revealed. None feels more daunting than the par-3 third, named "Crows Nest". The mountainous dune guarding the hidden green looks like golf's version of The Wall from Game of Thrones. The skyward climb is treacherous, although the reward for those who conquer the moment is extraordinary. The panorama up top extends across the Kilbrannan Sound to the Mull of Kintyre, where two more legendary seaside links, Machrihanish and Machrihanish Dunes, beckon. 

Shiskine's most fun blind shot comes on no. 7, called "Himalayas." Golfers need to hook their tee shots around a corner of a massive dune to find the putting surface. It's part luck, part skill to hit the green. After putting out, do not forget to pull the lever behind the green, which is connected to a pulley system that signals to golfers on the tee that it's their turn to play. Old-school touches like the lever and the honesty box at the clubhouse transport golfers who walk Shiskine back in time to simpler days.

Too bad, it's not so simple to discover Shiskine. So many golfers would be better for it. Playing Shiskine offers a sense of serenity, whimsy and enjoyment few courses can match. Enjoy our photo tour below of one of golf's most beloved oddities.

Cars wait to load on the CalMac ferry from Androssan to the Isle of Arran off the west coast of Scotland. Jason Scott Deegan/GolfPass

The 126-yard fourth at the Brodick Golf Club crosses an inlet. Jason Scott Deegan/GolfPass

The 121-yard 15th hole at the Brodick Golf Club returns across the inlet in the opposite direction. Jason Scott Deegan/GolfPass

The 222-yard 18th hole at Brodick Golf Club plays over water and feels like a drivable par 4 when the wind is up. Jason Scott Deegan/GolfPass

Friendly members at the Brodick Golf Club show why the 19th hole is so important in golf. Jason Scott Deegan/GolfPass

The port town of Androssan, which is only 45 minutes from the Glasgow airport in the west of Scotland, is the gateway to the Isle of Arran. It's only a 55-minute CalMac ferry ride (costing roughly $50 if you're taking a car) to reach the island, which is a golf destination all its own. There's enough golf (7 courses featuring 95 holes) to stay on the island for 4-5 days. Purchasing the Arran Golf Pass lets visitors experience every course in a single season. I played 30 holes in one day, teeing up Shiskine in the morning and the Brodick Golf Club near the ferry terminal that afternoon. Upon landing, it's only 20 minutes by car over the hilly midsection of the island to reach Shiskine. After lunch at the very nice Douglas Hotel, the bad weather forecast finally caught up to me for a very soggy round at Brodick. Fortunately, a generous member served as my tour guide the entire time. It's a fun course with loads of potential, finishing on a punishing par 3. I dried off with drinks in the 19th hole thanks to more friendly locals. A surprisingly tasty dinner on the ferry back to the mainland capped a truly memorable visit to the Isle of Arran.