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ALGARVE, Portugal - Normally I'm not the jealous type, especially after playing a highly ranked golf course in one of the world's best golf destinations.
Playing Quinta do Lago's North Course with three friendly U.K. golfers on holiday was great fun. The course was plush, and, in a rare bit of luck, I scored quite well.
However, when I saw the eye-popping photos of the cave-exploring ocean kayak my wife and daughter experienced that same June morning, I felt some heavy FOMO. The coastal cliffs along Portugal's southern coast are simply breathtaking.
Portugal's famed Algarve region is Europe's sun-soaked playground of golf, beaches and the ocean less than three hours south of Lisbon. Most European travelers fly straight into the local airport in Faro, but I'd recommend overseas visitors fly in and out of Lisbon and make the leisurely drive to see the countryside. The ride is generally stress-free once you get out of Lisbon (especially since you're driving on the same side of the road as the United States). Improving flight access and a reputation of affordability are driving record numbers of Americans to choose Portugal for their next overseas vacation.
Our four-day visit wasn't nearly enough time to explore the Algarve's 30-odd golf courses and endless resorts and recreation, but it was long enough to leave a lasting impression. Staying at the Wyndham Grand Algarve and Palmares Ocean Living & Golf impressed us enough to want to return someday.
Now about that weather ... from June to September, average temperatures remain firmly above 68 degrees Fahrenheit (the average is 75 degrees in July and August). The Algarve, which stretches more than 100 miles along the coast, boasts 300 or more sunny days per year. Even in the winter months, the average temperature only drops as low as 53 degrees in January (almost similar to a summer day on an Scottish links!).
A new series on GolfPass - Golf's Greatest Holes - also explores the golf riches of the Algarve in its first four episodes. Between watching those videos and reading this travelogue, I'm guessing you're the one who is now officially jealous. Maybe it's time to plan your own Algarve adventure.
Pampering at the Wyndham Grand Algarve
I knew we were staying somewhere special during the second day at the Grand Wyndham Algarve, an all-suites luxury hotel in the heart of the expansive 2,000-acre Quinta do Lago community. The 'QDL', set within the Ria Formosa nature reserve, celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2022. Coming back from golf, I noticed a crowd of fans lined up outside and the entire hotel staff in the lobby waiting the arrival of a celebrity or star athlete. A police escort brought in a bus, although I didn't stick around to catch a glimpse of who might have caused such a stir.
Everyone who stays feels like royalty thanks to the creature comforts of the 132 suites. Our two-bedroom suite came with a large dining/living room, kitchen, three bathrooms and a balcony - plenty of space for a month-long stay. We mostly spent our time relaxing at the outdoor pool, even though the beach was a short walk away. A spa, gym and multiple restaurant and bars make daily life simple for guests. The traditional Pastel de Natas (custard tarts) and Bola de Berlims (essentially sugary donuts) at the complimentary breakfast buffet are highly addictive.
Within walking distance are Qunita do Lago's celebrated North and South courses. All three courses - including the Laranjal 10 minutes farther out - currently rank among the top 11 in all of Portugal according to Top100golfcourses.com. They're all generally kept in impeccable condition and a joy to play, making Quinta do Lago, without a doubt, one of the world's best 54-hole clubs. A UK publication ranks it no. 26 among the Golf World Top 100: Best Golf Resorts in the World.
My timing wasn't great as the South course, the resort's original routing dating to 1974, was under renovation. It's considered the best of the three after hosting the Portuguese Open eight times between 1976-2001. I found the North course to be the perfect resort experience, playable and fun. On the rare spots where it gets tight, beware the towering trees lining the fairways. I hit a shot offline that never came down. Families of non-golfers will love that mini golf and ice cream are located right across the street from the clubhouse.
Laranjal is the newest addition, debuting in 2008. Without a complementary hotel shuttle, it's a bit of a hassle to find, but the effort is rewarded with a more rural and intimate setting away from hustle and bustle of the main resort campus. Its layout of five par 3s and five par 5s provide for more chances for aces and eagles.
Looking for a little excitement after golf? The Shack is a popular local watering hole with lively lunch and happy hour scenes involving live music.
Enjoying the good life at Palmares Ocean Living & Golf
My timing turned out to be perfect at Palmares, a growing community owned and operated by Kronos Homes. We were one of the first guests to stay in the new signature apartments overlooking the 27-hole golf course considered among the top five in Portugal.
The 37 state-of-the-art properties feature one or two bedrooms, kitchens, a small living area and multiple bathrooms. Several also include additional office space that can be used as extra bedrooms for larger groups. All bedrooms have two single beds inside, a setup conducive for golf groups. A second phase of construction is already underway for more. These longer-stay apartments are a perfect complement to the nearby Beach House Hotel, a 20-room boutique property where we enjoyed breakfast on the balcony overlooking the most stunning view beyond its pool, course and beach to the ocean horizon. The developing community offers real estate opportunities, the Meia Praia Beach and has plans to add a JW Marriott hotel.
The course is the handiwork of Robert Trent Jones Jr., who rerouted everything in 2010-11 over an existing course dating back to 1975. He made good use of the vistas out to the ocean and Alvor estuary on the Alvor (holes 1-9) and Lagos (holes 10-18) nines up in the hills. Four seaside holes between the beach and the railway line define the flatter, linksy Praia nine. The members I joined - a trio of "Shady Ladies" - prefer the hillier mix of parkland and dunesy holes on the 1-18 loop for their scenery and strategy. I tend to agree.
That afternoon, I finally got to see those glorious sea caves and mesmerizing sea cliffs up close on a three-hour catamaran sail out of Albufeira marina. We swam, sipped on boat drinks and took sooo many selfies. It was spectacular.
The following morning, I checked another item off the Portuguese bucket list, hunkering down in the sand at a beach in Praia da Luz, a charming coastal town near Lagos. The water was warm and the sun shining. Jealous again?
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