Back
HOT SPRINGS, Va. - If only first tees could talk.
The first tee of the Old Course at the Omni Homestead Resort would have a few stories to tell.
When we say 'first' tee, we actually mean it. This tee box is the longest-running, still-used FIRST tee in America. It dates to 1892 and has seen generations of golfers - including Presidents such as Clinton, Ford and both Bushes - peg it. To do the same, it's a privilege no golfer should take lightly.
The Omni Homestead Resort has been revived via a $150-million, property-wide renovation in 2023. The 36-hole retreat spread across 2,300 acres in the Allegheny Mountains of southwest Virginia doesn't always get the love it deserves from a younger generation that only makes decisions on where to travel based on social media. Sometimes, it's easy to overlook the old for shiny new destinations like Sand Valley or Cabot Citrus Farms, but this place is arguably even more special. It endures as an iconic American vacation spot. History happens here every day, keeping that tradition alive of generations of golfers, families and vacationers who fall in love with the mountains all over again.
If I had my choice of five U.S. golf destinations I've visited in the last decade that I want to return to immediately, the Omni Homestead would be on the short list. Call me a boomer or old - whatever you wish - but nothing beats its pair of classic courses and some old-fashioned luxury in such a magical mountain setting. Charming doesn't begin to describe the hotel's elegant architecture and decor, along with the resort's multitude of recreational opportunities.
Although I visited in July, I can only imagine what the Omni Homestead looks like in the fall, with the leaves changing and the mist rising off nearby peaks as the sun rises. It must be exquisite.
Playing golf at the Omni Homestead Resort
While the first tee of the Old boasts the notoriety, it's The Cascades most golfers seek to play.
The Cascades, located a short shuttle ride from the main resort, celebrated a centennial in 2023. It's a classic design by William S. Flynn, one of the prominent names of golf course architecture's "Golden Age." It's ranked among the Top 100 Tournament Courses You Can Play by GolfPass after hosting dozens of events, including the 1967 U.S. Women’s Open, 1988 U.S. Amateur, 1966 Curtis Cup and several U.S. Women’s Amateurs (1928, 1994). Next up are the 2025 U.S. Senior Women's Amateur and the 2029 U.S. Senior Amateur.
The routing is equal parts agreeable and dangerous, where sweeping elevations and water team up to test golfers. It flows wonderfully with the surrounding landscape, sometimes pinched tight by trees. Even the easy holes - the 294-yard fourth comes to mind - feel arduous.
The finishing foursome of holes comprises a famously unique stretch, pars 3-5-5-3, that differentiates the players from the rest of us. The 15th requires almost driver at 214 yards from the white tees. The first par 5 at no. 16 sets up some great risk-reward with a pond fronting the green that long hitters might carry in two. The par-5 17th whips left along the treeline, rewarding anyone who can shape the ball right to left. The finishing par 3 plays much longer than the yardage being that it's so elevated.
Funny thing is, the Old Course ends on a par 3, too. Its routing is a mutt of sorts, but a royal mutt considering that Donald Ross, Flynn, Robert Trent Jones Sr. and his son, Rees, have all worked on it over the years as the resort has expanded for more than a century.
At only 6,099 yards, the Old doesn't feel that short, thanks to the peaks and valleys of the sloping fairways and the difficulty of making solid contact against a barrage of crooked lies. I'm ready to proclaim the opening holes - another fun stretch with a 5-3-5-5-3 par combination - as the most "gettable" start in golf. It's not out of the realm of possibility that an average player like me could head to the sixth tee across the street at 3-under or more. All of the par 5s are less than 475 yards.
The weakest holes share this road, which leads to the resort, although there are some glorious spots on the back nine, notably the 14th and 17th that deliver stunning views of the hotel tower.
Staying at the Omni Homestead
Staying at the 483-room resort can feel downright presidential. This lifestyle - and three-hour drive from Washington D.C. - has attracted 23 U.S. Presidents over the years. The afternoon tea service in the stunning lobby, the relaxing treatments in the spa, the live music at dinner with the servers in tuxedos at the American Audubon Dining Room - it all feels very high-class.
Don't worry. There are still plenty of spaces to let your hair down. Every night, I witnessed families gathering on the front and back lawns to let their children run wild. Complementary s'mores at the outdoor fire pit drew a crowd. There's a putting course, tennis and a family pool complex with a lazy river and water slides for entertaining. Seasonal attractions such as a nearby ski area, equestrian center, falconry and mountain biking and hiking trails provide fun for all tastes.
While the idea of water as wellness may be considered a trend today, it has been an integral part of Bath County for centuries. Fed by four natural warm springs, the resort's 19th-century bathhouses have been sought after by travelers from around the world. The stone basin of the Gentlemen’s Bathhouse was constructed in 1761, making it the first spa structure in the country. The renovations have preserved them for the next generation.
I had a funny experience at the spa when a freak afternoon thunderstorm knocked out the power while I was waiting for my treatment. Who needs electricity when candlelight is the perfect way to relax? It was almost like the golf gods wanted me to experience the 1890s for a brief moment in time.
The following afternoon I visited the Shooting Club for some skeet shooting. I've done target shooting a handful of times over the years. It's normally just like my golf game - hit and miss - except on this rare moment when I hit targets like Jesse James. It's a good time, especially for a group of golfers (guys or gals) competing for drinks at dinner. As hunting lodges go, it's pretty posh.
Speaking of drinks, no golfer leaves town without stopping by the Sam Snead Tavern across the street from the resort. After perusing the memorabilia, including the astonishing 42 framed hole-in-one balls from Snead, I bellied up to the bar with only locals in sight. No Bandon Dunes polos. No Whistling Straits hats. No frat-boy golfers drowning out the live band with too-loud shenanigans. Just me and a few mountain men and women. I had found peace away from the commercialism of today's Instagram golf world.
Snead, a seven-time major champion, made this place his home, a simple, four-season mountain life that's easily to love. You should try it some time.
Stay in the Swing with GolfPass!
Get exclusive tips from the pros, in-depth course reviews, the latest gear updates, and more delivered straight to your inbox.
Comments (0)