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LA QUINTA, Calif. - It's a conundrum I've often wondered about golf travel.
There are two ways to experience the public venues of the PGA TOUR:
1, You can play the course before or after the tournament, which will make viewing from now until forever more enjoyable, knowing every hole and comparing how you fared versus the pros.
2, You can visit the destination while the tournament is ongoing, playing nearby courses in the morning and heading to the tournament to watch the pros live in the afternoon.
Which is best? To be honest, there is no right or wrong answer. I've done both and been perfectly thrilled with each experience. Ideally, you can eventually do both.
When it comes to The American Express in Palm Springs, though, I can assure you 1000 percent that it's best to take option 2. Sure, you won't get to play the infamous Stadium Course at PGA West, but that course is so darn hard for everyday golfers like you and me, it's probably best to leave it to the experts. Even they have a hard time now and then. Watch William Mouw's 13 from the deepest bunker in golf on the par-5 16th if you dare.
I've visited Greater Palm Springs mid-January during the Am Ex two years running, and it's uncanny how the Coachella Valley has been the ONLY place warm enough for golf in the ENTIRE country each time. Florida, Arizona and the rest of California all experienced serious cold/wet weather issues during the same window. Meanwhile, I was playing seven different courses I had never seen before (because there's always a course new-to-you to explore among the 80 or so local options).
Consider this story a heads-up to book your travel plans now before costs for flights and rental cars rise. This year, the Am Ex was held at the same time as Indio's Sand Storm Lacrosse Festival, the largest youth lacrosse tournament on the West Coast. Rental cars and cheap flights were in short supply. Thankfully, Sand Storm (Jan. 18-19) won't interfere too much with the Am Ex (Jan. 19-25) in 2026.
While old-timers grumble that the former "Bob Hope Classic" is in decline, first-time visitors shouldn't care. Gone are the celebrity hosts and the four-course rotation has shrunk to three, but the event has pivoted into one of the best fan-friendly experiences on TOUR thanks to its multi-day concerts. It's still home to the largest field in golf - 156 players, according to the Desert Sun. A few stars still have it on their calendars: World No. 1 Scottie Scheffler and Xander Schauffele were scheduled to play before injuries got in the way. The field and venue is well worth the trip.
As entertaining as it was watching pros and amateurs sink shots into the water trying to hit the 17th hole's island green (called Alcatraz), my wife and I had even more fun seeing Journey and Little Big Town perform up close each night. At my age, Friday and Saturday concerts ending around 7 p.m. are the best invention ever. I had no problem getting up for early tee times the next day. All daily ticket holders have access to the concerts.
Where to play in Palm Springs during the Am Ex
I've already shared with you the unlikely comeback of the Trilogy Golf Club at La Quinta. It's near PGA West's Stadium Course (six miles away), making it convenient for spectators. Check out my review below.
PGA West, including the Stadium course and the public 36-hole facility home to the Pete Dye Dunes and Pete Dye Mountain courses, is fresh off of an extensive three-year, multi-million-dollar renovation by Tim Liddy, Dye's long-time right-hand man. The architectural team hand-dug around the bunkers and greens of all three courses to restore them to their original shapes and contours.
"The goal of this restoration project was to bring the courses back to their original conditions as Pete Dye first conceived them, while also upgrading elements for enhanced playability and sustainability," says PGA WEST Executive Director Ben Dobbs. "We are thrilled to showcase the results of each renewed course, offering an unforgettable experience for golfers of every skill level while solidifying PGA WEST's standing as one of the top golf destinations in the world."
The Pete Dye Clubhouse also received a makeover, including a casual new restaurant called The Bunker Bar, home to two new Trackman 4 golf simulators available to the public.
Playing the Mountain Course takes golfers on an epic journey into the foothills of the Santa Rosa Mountains on the back nine. If your ball doesn't end off pinging off of the rocks at some point, you've played well. The scenery makes the Dye-induced doubles more tolerable.
Instead of rocks, water is the hazard of choice on the Palm Course at the JW Marriott Desert Springs, a Ted Robinson design from the late 1980s. I lost more balls than I care to admit but had fun trying to take on a few heroic carries.
The four-hole finishing stretch is where golfers better have their wits about them. Three water-logged par 4s (nos. 15, 16 and 18) are trumped only by the impressive waterfall feature everybody photographs on the par-3 17th.
Although I've never stayed at the JW Marriott Desert Springs, just playing its golf courses serve as an appetizing introduction. Golfers drive their carts by the massive pool complex at the beginning and end of their rounds. Meanwhile, a small boat takes guests on a pleasure cruise around the pond along the 18th hole to see koi, pink flamingos and the beauty of the course.
Where to stay in Palm Springs during the Am Ex
Both last year and this, I've stayed at the centrally located Indian Wells Golf Resort, where four hotels and 36 holes feed customers to one another. Troon Golf does a great job running the Celebrity and Players courses. I can't recommend them enough.
The Renaissance Esmeralda Resort & Spa (a Marriott brand) is a massive 560-room hotel with central gathering spaces indoors (The Place) and out (the sprawling pool complex).
The Place fills up every night with hungry guests looking to dine and watch the game on the movie-screen-sized big TVs or just hang sipping a cocktail after a long day.
The daily resort fee ($45) includes use of bike rentals, pickleball courts and yoga with an instructor. Younger kids will gravitate to the Desert Glow Entertainment Zone's virtual reality, arcade games, an escape room and duckpin (five pin) bowling. A spa and tennis courts are also available.
The standard king-size room is more than spacious enough for an extended stay. If you can't make the dates for the Am Ex work, Greater Palm Springs is always the place to be December through April. The sun's always out, whether you're a golfer, lacrosse player or just seeking a vacation from the cold.
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