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PEBBLE BEACH, Calif. - His voice cracks.
Tears well up in his eyes.
"I never thought I would see this," my cousin Matt says while staring out at The Lone Cypress on 17-Mile Drive.
Never underestimate the emotional power and shock-and-awe beauty of the Monterey Peninsula.
Californians like me take for granted the coastal scenery of Pebble Beach Resorts and 17-Mile Drive. Not my cousin, a golfer who has lived his whole life in Minnesota. He was in town with a pair of uncles helping me with a home improvement project, but I surprised him by planning a day off touring Pebble Beach. I'll never forget the smile on his face.
The 17-Mile Drive was our first stop during a busy day of golf, sightseeing, shopping and dining at both The Lodge at Pebble Beach and The Inn at Spanish Bay.
It's fun playing tour guide when you're feeding off the energy of a first-time visitor. Golfers never forget the overwhelming feeling of excitement and anticipation the first time they step foot on property. My first visit in 2003 remains a vivid memory two decades later.
I made it a point to watch my cousin's reactions every place we took pictures - the first tee of The Links at Spanish Bay and Pebble Beach Golf Links, the 18th green at Pebble Beach, the patio of the Lodge, the Pebble Beach Visitor's Center, the wall of fame near the first tee. I wanted to soak up the emotional high he was riding.
I, however, was on a fact-finding mission. It might be the last time I play Spanish Bay before the upcoming Gil Hanse and Jim Wagner redesign. I wanted to take some mental notes on what might be changed. We also sampled the Lodge's newest, upgraded dining option - the Terrace Lounge. Pebble Beach's dining scene is criminally underrated because the golf is so good.
We ran out of daylight before we could experience all the things I wanted to show him ... the bagpiper playing at dusk at Sticks and the putting course at The Hay. It was his fault, though. My cousin spent too much time in the pro shops, spending $500 on merch!
A last look at The Links at Spanish Bay?
The Hanse redesign of The Links at Spanish Bay - which I broke last fall - was big news for Pebble Beach. Its biggest competitors - Bandon Dunes and Pinehurst Resort - have been busy adding new courses the past five years. While Pebble Beach transformed The Hay into an incredible asset, this move was probably long overdue. Rumors of a redesign have been circling for years. No timetable has been set when Spanish Bay might close and the work begins. That leaves players guessing about which round might be their last.
I love teeing it up at the 6,739-yard Spanish Bay, but there are noticeable flaws. Spanish Bay has always sat third in the pecking order at Pebble Beach. Considering how incredible the site is - where 12 of the holes wander through dunes and six more climb into the Del Monte Forest - Hanse has the chance to redefine that narrative.
I've always thought Spanish Bay suffered from the "too many cooks in the kitchen" syndrome, where each architect (Robert Trent Jones Jr., Tom Watson and Sandy Tatum) tried to leave their stamp on the property. That led to too much mounding, too many severe green sites and too many difficult golf holes. Often times, less is more.
The movement in modern golf architecture toward more playable, strategic and fun golf holes will serve Spanish Bay well. It can get windy out there, so I could see Hanse getting rid of some of the forced carries that exist on approach shots. By flatting out greens and their surrounds Spanish Bay could actually play like the "links" it was intended to be. Adding at least one driveable par 4 - can it be 275 yards from the blue tees, so resort golfers have a chance, please? - would seem like a no-brainer.
My best advice for golfers thinking about visiting Pebble Beach would be to play The Links at Spanish Bay now while you can. This round would act like a class of 'Architecture 101'. Being able to compare how a course was designed in 1987 versus what the new version will look like should provide a whole new understanding of what architects envision when devising a new routing plan. Plus, it's a great excuse to come back again and see what Hanse and Wagner eventually create. I'm happy I got one last round in to gain such valuable perspective.
Dining at The Terrace Lounge
Dining at The Terrace Lounge probably isn't on anybody's radar. To be honest, I'd never heard of it. Turns out, that's a mistake.
As iconic as The Tap Room is, I'd choose dinner and drinks on The Terrace Lounge patio every time.
Previously, guests were welcome to bring their drinks to this space just steps down from the lobby, but the new Terrace Lounge Bar with a dedicated bartender and food service now makes it a more welcoming place, where live music sometimes entertains after dark. We ordered an old fashioned and a margarita to toast our round.
The small patio outside features tables with outdoor fire pits overlooking a stunning view of the 18th green. While we dined at dusk, the most incredible "golden hour" emerged right before our eyes. We watched each group play the famous par 5 as we munched on gluten-free parmesan garlic wings ($20) and crab grilled cheese ($24) appetizers. For the main entrees (which come from The Stillwater Bar and Grill's menu), an open-faced lobster sandwich ($45) and burger ($29) hit the spot. The best part? You can order dessert from either Stillwater or Tap Room menus.
The setting was so serene that we didn't spend much time in the Tap Room afterward. The contrast in the vibe was noticeable: The Tap Room felt too chaotic after a beautiful day outside.
Whenever you get the chance to dine outside at Pebble Beach, then do it. The Terrace Lounge is just as satisfying as the resort's other premier outdoor dining spots ... The Bench, Sticks and Hay's Place. Neither the food or the views disappoint. Just ask this old-timer and first-timer.
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